Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Ngong! (The Real Story Begins)

11-13 December 2009

Population: 45,000 (Or so I’ve been told; it feels like little more than 10,000)
Dominant religions: Islam, 70%, Christianity: 25%
Hottest temperature recorded since arriving at post: 93 degrees, Fahrenheit (keep in mind, though, that this is technically the beginning of the cold season)

I’ve been at post for a little less than a week now and it’s certainly been interesting. Spouts of boredom followed by periods of frustration, and every once in a while a little fun and joy thrown in the mix. I kid, it’s been mostly good here so far. My language barrier is now much higher here than it was during training and I think there’s a few reasons for that: firstly, I don’t speak Fulfulde, the dominant language here. Secondly, I find those that do speak French harder to understand—probably a combination of the fact that I got used to the accent near Bangante and that I’d estimate only about 50-60% of people speak conversational French here. But I’ve been asking around about finding a tutor here in Ngong, so hopefully I can start learning Fulfulde soon. And if I can’t find one here, Garoua is only 30 minutes away, though that’d be more expensive. Regardless, I’ll be fine. These first few months just might be a little slow as I gain (or re-gain) my groundings in these languages.

Ngong is definitely an interesting place. As I noted earlier, it seems a lot smaller than it is and I think that is mostly because it isn’t as developed as, say, Bangante which is smaller than Ngong, but with many more amenities (internet, for one). The market, however, is amazing. It’s kicking every day, but I think I wrote about that before so I’ll let it be for now. Anyway, it’ll be the place that I learn a lot of Fulfulde, because most people there speak that.

I also have my first sort of program planned. There’s a French Catholic Mission in town and one of the sisters does a lot of health projects, mostly focused on sensitizing the population on issues relating to HIV/AIDS. She invited me to come along to a meeting she has with a community group this Saturday. I don’t think I’ll do very much this time but it will be good to observe how these groups work and also to simply work on my French.

Some people have also expressed interest in mailing me some things. Apparently flat-rate boxes from the post office are the cheapest, though padded envelopes get here the quickest and with the least amount of hassle. See the previous post for more info on mailing. My parents are sending me a few of these things but I think there’ll be a continuous need. Here are a few things I could go for:
Incense. You can find it here, I’m told, but the quality isn’t too great and the scents are pretty hit or miss. I have also been told that it is impossible to find Nag Champa here, so there’s that, too.
Mac and Cheese! Or, really, just the cheese packets. I can find elbow noodles in Garoua, but the actual cheese for mac and cheese is virtually impossible. I think some people even looked in Yaounde without any luck.
Deoderant. Yes, maybe an odd request but it’s also impossible to find here. I also grossly underestimated my deodorant consumption when I only brought three sticks with me. The one person I talked to who found it in Yaounde, once, at the market said it was 10,000 CFA (or about 20 clams). If you feel so inclined, I like the Old Spice white stick stuff (I’m allergic to most others).
PHOTOS! I have a few photos from the states but I would really like to have some more photos of everyone! Gimme some photos of what you all have been up to since I saw you last or maybe some photos of us together, too! I plan on decorating at least one wall with them.
Music! Maybe an MP3 CD or something of some new bands you’ve been getting into or some new music that’s come out.
And really, anything any of you send me will be greatly appreciated. Especially a letter letting me know how you are.

It’s been two days since I started writing this post and petite-à-petite, things are getting a little easier. I’ve found some friends in the community, some people who are patient with my crappy French, and some people who are more than willing to help me, l’étranger, figure things out. Last night I was at a bar with some friends, eating some fish and sipping on a coke, and thought, “this is just such a trip.” And it is, it really is.

The Present Obvious

A peculiar new phenomenon is on the rise here in Cameroon, and scholars take note, it is actually a brand new verb tense: the present obvious. It is incredibly easy to pick up and many people don’t even know they’re using it until somebody points it out. To do it, you simply take an obvious question which you already know the answer to, and stick it in the present tense. Here are a few examples:

Tu es la? (You are there?)
Tu est ici? (You are here?)
Tu part comme ca? (You leave like this?)
Tu arrive déjà? (You arrive already?)

This striking phenomenon is sweeping the nation, and is particularly infecting Peace Corps Volunteers who pick up on this amazingly useful new tense and use it with one another, both in French or English (Yesterday I heard somebody walk into the kitchen and say: “You’re cooking?”).

Another useful phrase which, while not in the present obvious, is in a similar vein is “patience.” Now, patience (pronounced: pah-see-anse), from all of my investigations into my French-English dictionary and questions posed to language trainers, has the same meaning as it does in English. However, when I hit my head getting into a van, somebody told me “patience.” When I tripped over my homestay brother’s foot he said calmly, “patience.” When one girl had to get stitches in the hospital and the nurse was scrubbing her wound with soap and water, the nurse told her “patience.” As far as I can tell, it’s somewhere between “be careful,” “don’t worry about it” and “calm down, it’s not a big deal.”

So if the present obvious is taking you some time to get the hang of, patience.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

I wanted to sail around the world, just ‘cause it’s round. Ya know?

11.28.09

Today is my last day of language instruction before swearing in, which will be on December 3rd. I passed out of needing to take any more French last week, so I started studying Fulfulde earlier this week and I’m basically just getting a basic understanding of it before I begin to head up to post on Thursday (12/4). Fulfulde is a language spoken across much of the Sahel region of Africa, although it does differ from country to country. It seems like a pretty rad, easy language so far. None of the greetings use verbs and every verb is conjugated the same way, regardless of subject. The grammar is pretty straightforward too, it’ll just take a while to get used to the vocabulary because it’s like nothing I’ve ever studied before. I also realized a few days ago that Fulfulde is now the 5th language I’ve studied, 6th if you include English. (The others are Spanish, Swedish, French and German. I guess I could through in Danish and the local patois here in Bamena, too, but I’ve never properly studied them.)

Anyway, it’s been a pretty wild ride so far. No, that’s not quite right. I can’t really say it’s been wild, yet. I’ve had some pretty crazy experiences, some VERY interesting conversations, and also been given some cool names. I’m currently known in my neighborhood as Tanji. That’s a name my homestay mother gave to me, because it’s also the name of my homestay brother and the nephew of the chief of Bamena. I also found out when I went to the chefferie (chief’s palace) and an old Mama called me Tanji that it is a title given to somebody that means “father of twins”. Well alright then. One of the language instructors for PC has started calling me “le Prince de Bamena.”

My homestay family has gotten me a couple shirts made out of panye, the local fabric which is rich in vibrant colors and patterns. Joey, I know how you feel about white people dressing up in African garb but to this I say: too bad. My family loves it and tells me I’m a real African (un vrai africain!), especially when I greet them and their friends in the patois. I can’t wait to get some boubous once I get up North.

A couple quick notes on communication: I have a cell phone and I’m sorry if you tried to call me on the original number I posted on facebook, I wasn’t too clear on the area codes and whatnot. Anyway, my number, to the best of my knowledge, is 011-237-70143164. I think. Maybe if that’s not right, Joey or Jacob or my parents can comment on what to do. I would really like to talk to you all. If you’ve been waiting for me to call you, then, well, keep waiting. It costs me over a dollar a minute to call anyone in the states and I don’t usually have more than 5 bucks worth of credit at a time. Also, it is free for me to receive calls and I believe it’s the same price for you in the states to receive or make calls. So really….call me. Also, here’s an address you can send me stuff to, starting now:

HH, PCV
B.P. 1825
Garoua, Cameroon
Africa

It might be useful to write on the letter in red ink, apparently that makes it less likely to be tampered with or stolen. Also, if you feel so inclined, draw some crosses or religious symbols on it and maybe write “Rev. or Fr.” in front of my name. It’d be great to get some mail from you guys in the states. If you mail something, it seems to take about a month to get here, so don’t be expecting an immediate thank you, though it will come. Also, padded envelopes seem to get here the quickest if you wanted to send something more than just a letter, though the flat rate boxes from the post office are the cheapest.

We had a great Thanksgiving dinner on Thursday. We cooked a couple turkeys, made mashed potatoes, stuffing, and loads of other stuff. Then we read off a bunch of superlatives that we’d voted on, secret-ballet-style last week. I got a few: Most likely to write a book about their experiences, Most likely to have an unsual pet at post, Least likely to be able to speak English at the end of service, and then Paul, the only other male trainee in the health program, and I got most likely to become a couple. Good stuff. Guess I’ll be writing a book about my pet giraffe in French (or Fulfulde).

Well, I must be off, but I’ll try to post again in a few weeks, once I’m at post and can make it up to Garoua to utilize the internet.

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Ngong

11.6.2009


View Larger Map

I’m in Ngong right now, getting ready to head back to Yaounde and then hopefully back to the Western Region by Sunday. I discovered a week ago that my site was going to be Ngong in the Northern Region. Initially, I was incredibly excited. I feel like I would be happy anywhere in this country but the North is an area that fascinated me. It’s super hot, mostly Muslim, and almost a completely different country than the south. After the excitement, though, I realized that I was the only person coming the North. A few people were going to Adamoua (the region just south of the Northern) but most of friends from training are going to be posted in the West and Northwest Regions—a two days journey at best. What I’ve been telling myself, though, is that I came here to do development work, not hang out with friends. I’ll see them when I can, and talk to them when I can, but my main goal should be to integrate into my community and do development projects that way.

Anyway, now that I’m here, I love it. It’s the end of the rainy season so it’s starting to get hot (I’m guessing it’s been topping off in the 100’s) but there’s still some green on the landscape. I won’t be expecting that when I return in December. There’s a very large Muslim population here, and most people’s first language is Fulfulde, a language that is widely spoken across the Sahel.

A few things I’ve done up here: On both Tuesday and Thursday I went with the volunteer who is here now but COSing (close of service-ing) in December out into the bush. He’s teaching at a school for a group of Mboro (sp?) children and the tribe has never, ever had any form of traditional education before. It was a really powerful experience for me but it was also really difficult to try helping out in the teaching. I mean, how do you teach a group of people who have no history or tradition of reading, writing, or education? On Wednesday I also went out into the Bush again, but this time with the other volunteer and the doctor who will be my counterpart when I start in December. We went around to different health centers and checked up on the immunizations going on because that day was a big immunization day. Lastly, people in Ngong have started calling me Ali, because Harley is too difficult to pronounce. In French my name is just pronounced “Arley” so dropping the R isn’t too much of a stretch anyway. I think I might start hearing “Bonjour Ali” in the north as much as I heard “Bonjour Papa” in the west.

In regards to this blog, I’m planning on doing mostly sort of slice of life bits from my experiences here in Cameroon—like my last one about the man I met. Starting in December I should start having internet at least a couple times a month when I go to Garoua and I’ll try to post some blogs that way. I’m kinda scatterbrained right now so I’m going to sign off but I’ll probably post again once I get back to Ngong for good in December. One last thing: if you are going to mail me anything, hold tight for a little bit. It turns out I can get mail at the Peace Corps office in Garoua and I’ll post that address next time.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Written: 14.10.09

His eyes are docile: slow moving but attentive in their own way. They linger on me or my fellow trainee for long after either of us finishes speaking. Perhaps they judge the truth or sincerity in our words, perhaps they probe us to divulge further. But I’m not confident in my French, so I look away and take another drink of the beer he bought me—a Tuborg Gold.

He again offers us a cigarette, but we decline. He’s a businessman in Yaounde—the capital—but he comes from Bamena—where we’re staying. He becomes confused when I offer to light his cigarette with my lighter. You don’t smoke? he asks in French. No. It’s for my…my… I search for the word, …my…candles, when the electricity doesn’t work. Ah, he nods, that slow nod that keeps his half-open eyes fixed on me. Ah, that nod says, I understand.

We talk at length about soccer, the beauty of the Western Region, the Peace Corps, and what we want to do afterwards. My companion mostly talks; I listen and look around while the businessman alternates his gaze between us and takes drags on his cigarette. Et vous? he asks me when the last subject rises. Je ne sais pas, I start and then mumble something about going back to school. Mais, I want to say but don’t, c’est beaucoup des choses faire—-there are so many things to do.

Monday, September 21, 2009

An African Blessing

After we landed at the airport in Yaounde, we packed into like 6 or 7 Land Rovers, Land Cruisers and vans. I was in one that only had a front seat and a back seat as the rest of the back was full of our back packs and we crammed four people into the backseat, “Africa-style” as they said. This small girl named Christina was sitting in the front and had the whole passenger’s seat to herself, she kept asking if somebody wanted to get in there with her because she felt bad that she had that whole seat to herself. As we were pulling away, a peace corps worker named Tiki stopped the car and hopped in with her, so she sat on the console between the driver’s and passenger’s seats. We all laughed and the driver said in his heavily accented English, “Welcome to Cameroon.”
As we were driving into the city it started to rain, slow at first--big fat drops that smacked against the windshield with a crack. After a few minutes the rain started to pick up and Tiki spoke up and said that when you arrive at the airport in Africa and it starts raining before you get to your first destination, it’s a blessing.
A few images from the drive in:
a shaggy green canopy with slender trunks and cloud-like heads pop up; mud and cinderblock houses with tin roofs and dirt yards; trash collects in any drain or recess between houses, yards and roads; big, fat raindrops tumble from the dark clouds that reached up for miles; [orange] signs on the corners of bars, restaurants, and road-side stands (what’s that? –fruit? –mobile phone minutes, I think?); fruit stands with large, tattered umbrellas selling green mangoes and fist-sized tomatoes; beautiful hand-crafted furniture stashed in groups under palm trees with thin blue and clear tarps stretched over; a large headstone next to a smaller one in a house’s yard, facing the road; a 15-20 story, abandoned building with a top-to-bottom World Cup advertisement; the slightly sweet, slightly bitter, poignant smell of sweat; dented, rusted yellow Toyota cabs beep and swerve in and out of lanes.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Eesh!

I'm in Philadelphia right now and will probably be waking up in a little over 5 hours to get ready to head out. We're getting our shots in the early morning and then heading to New York to go catch a flight to Cameroon! The Surreal-ness of this whole venture is beginning to slide away and the reality that I will be spending over two years in Cameroon is slowly taking it's place. I almost lost it on the way to the El Paso airport yesterday after I said goodbye to my dog who I will probably never see again and was preparing to say goodbye to my step mom. Insanity. But I am incredibly comforted by the fact that everyone here is essentially in the same boat as me and we're all kinda freaked out. I'm scarred shitless and honestly afraid of what is about to happen, but I'm also so indescribably excited (I don't really think the two can ever truly be separated, right?) that I think all the fear, self-doubt, anxiety, and probable hardships that have and will come will be worth it.

I've met some very cool, nice people here in Philly and I think we have a good group of people. I also think that I'll be able to get along with and make some good friendships with a good number of them.

Too many other things to think of now so I'll just leave off with two quotes/saying that have hit me particularly hard in the last few days:
-This is what Derek told me when I left Seattle: "Hey man, this isn't goodbye. It's see ya later." It's hard to say how much that simple line has helped me when parting ways.
-A tattoo a girl I met today named Stephanie (who is going to Togo with PC) had on her arm: "Make the most of today because tomorrow is a promise to noone." I'm sorry if I got the quote wrong, I'm just typing it from memory, but I think it's a pretty good way of putting how I feel right now.

Thank you for reading. I will be back with more once I'm in Cameroon. I'm not religious, but if you are... pray for me.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Soooo: Cameroon!

Anxiousness: check.
Nervousness: check.
Fear: check.
Excitement: double-check.

As I write this I'm watching the US Open and I wonder if I'll get a chance to see any tennis while in Africa. I'm resigned to the fact that I won't be able to see any baseball, basketball, or football but I wonder aside from soccer what will be popular. Alright, so it is a little over a week until I leave (again), and even with the jeopardy of jinxing it again, I'll share some thoughts and information.

I'm just beginning the packing process and writing down the few things I still have to get. The current plan is that I'm flying to Philadelphia on the 15th for some orientation/shots/introductions that start on the 16th, which means I'll have almost 24 hours to explore a city I've never been to before! I believe at last tally there's something like 33 of us heading over to Cameroon which I'm happy about because it will make it easier for me and my horrible skills with linking names and faces. On the 17th, we'll be flying out of JFK, through Belgium, arriving in the capital on the 18th. My address for the first three months of training will be:

HH, Peace Corps Volunteer
Corps de la Paix
B.P. 215
Yaoundé, Cameroon

If you mail me something, keep in mind it'll take at least 3 weeks to get to me. Number your letters so I know if one gets lost. If you mail me a package of some sort, don't send something that would majorly suck to have stolen as mail theft is pretty common. That doesn't mean not to send me a CD or something but think twice if it's something sentimentally significant that might not make it. Lastly, I'll have a new address sometime in November or December so make sure to check back and then start sending letters there.

Well, I'm pretty scatterbrained right now and packing is calling me. More later.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Mauritania is so last week.

Well, I got a call last week from PC telling me that our trip to Mauritania was canceled. I was incredibly unsurprised by this as we had been postponed without a new, solid departure date, our visas were still not coming, and the day before the call an American was shot in Nouakchott, the capitol. By Al Qaeda. Soooo, yeah. I was waiting basically waiting for the trip to be canceled and considering how long everything else has taken I'm glad they didn't wait until August to cancel it.

Anyway, I just got an email today with a new assignment that's in Cameroon and leaves in September. I will read some more about it but I'm pretty sure I'm going to accept it as it's still in the same field (Community Health) and Cameroon is still (partially) a francophone country. I know next to nothing about the country so I was a bit disappointed, mostly because I'd started reading up on some other country possibilities and, for no particular reason, this wasn't one of them. Regardless, though, I plan on reading up about it over the next 10 days and then making my decision.

In the meantime, it looks like I'm going to move to Phoenix in a couple weeks and spend the rest of the summer there. Why? Well, a) I have that big city itch again; b) Joey's there and has a room I can rent for cheap; and c) well...that's about it, those are my reasons.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

A Correction for the Record

Yesterday, I was really getting the itch to get out and take care of most of the loose ends I still had before I left next week. I studied on Rosetta Stone for almost three hours, ran all over town buying nearly everything I still needed, and then finally rounded out the day with a nice dinner with my parents. Upon getting home, I swung on over to my computer and then facebook where I saw one girl who I was supposed to go to Mauritania had posted her status as "really, REALLY wasn't supposed to go to Mauritania in june... too bad for the future PCVs!" I assumed that something had happened with her and she canceled. Then I scrolled down on my screen and saw that at least half a dozen other people had similar messages up. Insert me freaking out.

I checked my phone and I had no missed calls. I ran next door to my parents' house and we had no messages. My dad did have a missed call from a DC area code on his cell phone but they hadn't left a message. Franticly, I began scouring the internet for who to call and I must have tried two dozen numbers before somebody on facebook gave me the numbers for our regional desk directors in DC, where I then left messages.

And I just got off the phone with the regional desk director this morning and apparently the RIM government hasn't issued our visas. I guess it's not that they denied our visa requests but that they aren't issuing them now and we can only hope that they will after the elections. It probably has something to do with the elections being postponed until July. I was initially excited when I heard there was an agreement for an end to the political crisis in Mauritania that postponed the elections. Furthermore, I was even more excited to BE there when the elections were happening. Now, however, the delay looks to be the reason we can't get visas. We're hoping on a mid-August departure but at this point, I'm wondering if we'll ever get off the ground.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Bonjour et au revoir.

In less than two weeks I'll be on a plane to Senegal.

I'm still trying to take that in and every time I do, multiple waves of fear, anxiety, dread, excitement, wonderment, and confusion settle over me. I just got off a plane from Seattle, I was in LA three weeks ago, KC a month and a half ago, Tucson a little while back, and New York and Denmark in December/January... it's insane to now think that I'll be in Africa so soon. I am incredibly excited and antsy to finally get to Mauritania and get started on training and volunteering but at the same time my abysmal French skills are causing a large deal of alarm. Anyway, regardless of the anxiety, I've been waiting for this for over a year now and very little can possibly stop me at this point!

As for this blog, I'm hoping to be able to update it whenever I can. Maybe once a week (doubtful) but more likely once every month or two. I'm told that during the first two-three months of training my access to internet will be pretty limited, and once I find out where I'll be stationed I'll know what my more regular internet access will be like. If I get the chance I'll try upload photos and give a few impressions about what I'm seeing and experiencing.


For those who might be interested, here's a little map of the traveling I've done in the last six months, as I alluded to earlier...